Friction knots
Just a handy reminder of your classic friction knots:
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5 comments:
Nice find, it's best to know a couple of these for when you need to use them (when the need arises, you will *definitely* know).
Friction knots, as a reminder, are meant to catch when loaded but movable once unloaded - a couple of these are a good emergency way to ascend a rope - I always carry two on my emergency biner (along with a knife).
General uses:
- ascending a rope
- backing up a rappel
- rigging a haul (Z pulley, for example)
Keep in mind that the prusik works best with cord (accessory cord, 5 or 6mm is standard) but tends to slip with webbing, and spectra can melt with extended friction and heating. If I'm using a sling (for example for a rap backup) I tie an autoblock.
Thanks for the info ^, the original post was a bit sparse.
The image is a scan of the info that came with prusik cords I picked up at REI. A waste of money, but I'm lazy (only difference from 2 pieces of 6mm cord are that the ends are stitched together, and the sheath is textured, ie sandpapered).
Pre-tied prusiks, eh? It'll be nice to not have the bulky double fisherman's knot hanging around.
I'm guessing you're thinking one for a rap backup, and the both of 'em as emergency ascenders? These are great to have, and can be used as last-ditch slings or to tie of rap anchors... I actually keep two on my harness, a short one (~16" doubled) and a longer one (~3-3.5 ft doubled).
Can be used for a system of ascent called the Texas Prusik:
- the shorter loop connects your belay loop to the rope
- the longer line is tied with a loop on each end, one for each foot
- the middle of the long line is tied off as an eight-on-a-bight, which is prusiked to the rope
- to ascend, you stand in the foot loops which unweights the waist loop, which you then slide up; you then lean back and weight the waist loop, allowing you to slide the foot loop up
This kind of system, whether it uses jumars or prusiks, is essentially: stand on your feet, advance your top connection to the rope, weight your top connection, and advance your lower (feet) connection. Two prussiks allow you to do this, and you can extend it with slings to reach your feet if your prussik loop is short. In a pinch, you can use one prussik to your waist and wrap the rope around a single foot to lock and stand (time consuming and painful, apparently).
Freedom of the Hills has a good section on this, under the heading of self-rescue and glacier travel.
Took a look - assume you got the Metolius set? Fancy, I like the fact that the different colors makes it easy to tell short and long at a glance.
Guess you still have to deal with the knot...
Yup, got the Metolius set. Not sure all the "extras" really make it work 20$, but at least I have prusiks now.
I remember thinking they would come in handy at the Gunks should I peel off the High E overhang with a lot of slack.
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