Trad-ical
Spent the day at the Gunks, getting my lead head back after a year off the rock. We started on the 2-pitch Belly Roll (5.4), then moved over to the 3-pitch RMC (5.5). Beautiful weather, cool and crisp but warm on the cliff face, looking over the changing fall foliage in the valley below.
I always forget how hard the mental aspect of placing pro on lead is, all the moves are there climbing wise but it took me a little while to trust the climb and trust my placements. Took a leader fall early - definitely helped to get it out of the way, and well worth the sacrificed nut (couldn't get it out).
Looking forward to heading back out...
3 comments:
Looks nice, was it crowded?
How do you practice multi-pitch in the gym? Eg., belaying from the top and cleaning up? The potential for cluster-fucktivity w/ 3 people is making me lean towards Rumney ...
It was super-crowded, we ended up doing a couple of less popular (but still excellent) climbs, but still waited for parties to leave the ground, or had them chasing close behind us.
Not really too many options to practice other than just to go do it, maybe in a less vertical environment - something slabby or even 4th class, perhaps. Gyms really don't offer a good option fo r this. Of course, the other way is to hire a guide service and learn through them, but generally speaking you can learn just enough from an attentive non-guide (me) for far less money...
Well, I'm glad you got you head back. I'd definitely like to head up some weekend and try it all out. I don't have much of a preference for location.
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