Wednesday, February 3, 2010

Deadpoints and downclimbs

Short bouldering session at BKB tonight with Brian and Guillaume. Uber crowded, but we worked some pretty compelling climbs. We started off with the steep stuff first to warm up on larger holds, working up from V1 to V4-V5. Fun, big moves with large throws for the top on many of the problems. Worked in a lot of downclimbing, which G is very diligent at finishing for every climb - will come in handy on the sharp end one of these days. Finished the night with more vertical climbing, sticking to the V4-V5 range. Tougher, and we didn't finish many problems, but at least we ended the evening by closing out a short V4+ with a big deadpoint throw to a blocky sloper, followed by a body tension left hand reach to an adjacent crappy angled pinch.

I really like the problems at BKB, though it's a little disappointing they raised their bouldering daypass to $20. Seeing more and more sick strong individuals there, often with strength outpacing climbing technique - once they start developing technique, will be some good climbers coming out of there soon.

I'm still thinking about ice, though.

Definition:
guil⋅laume [Fr gee-yohm]
-noun
A climbing maneuver where a gaston grip is used in an unnecessary or inadvisable situation, often done for stylistic flourish or to prove a point

5 comments:

  1. Prove a point! Qui, moi? Non j'amais.

    The downclimbing on steep stuff was good training.

    I don't remember doing gastons that much. I didn't even do it on that last climb despite Brian's claim this was the way to go.

    I must say it is difficult to explain or even understand why that last climb was difficult, but it was.

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  2. lols

    Good idea to go steep first, and nice job Guillaume unlocking one more move on that yellow V5 (stepping through rather than my stupid splits).

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  3. Bouldering's a real contrast to ice climbing - limit moves versus careful control, constant versus never falling, warm and comfortable versus freezing. Good session.

    And compared to urbandictionary, you ought to be real happy with my definition...

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  4. Ouch, Brian, that hurts.

    Yes K, I like the definition (now that I have seen the alternatives).

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  5. You say that like I made those definitions up! I'm just the messenger man.

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